This blog does not represent the policies or positions of the Peace Corps, and is the responsibility of the author alone.

Sunday, April 21, 2013

Our Renaissance Man


Bariki (which means "blessing") is the head guard at our school, but he is much more than that.  He is a handyman, and the first person to call, when we have a problem with locks, doors, water, electricity, masonry, plumbing, or almost anything.  He recently repaired the school's water supply pipes, ending our 3 1/2 days without water.
At the Lutheran church just outside our gates, Bariki sets up the sound system, directs the youth choir, and plays the organ.  He also plays other musical instruments.  During our Form 6 graduation ceremony in February, Bariki and 3 other musicians led the procession of graduating students.  He was playing the trombone.

(I tried to upload a photo here, but after 2 failed attempts that took 20 minutes each, I gave up).
Bariki is Maasai.  He usually wears Western-style clothes, but we occasionally see him in the colorful tribal shuka, or robe, when he is on guard duty.  Many Maasai men work as guards, and they can be impressive.  They get respect from man and beast.
Bariki speaks Swahili, and, I assume, the Maasai language.  He also speaks English better than we speak Swahili.  I don't know his academic skills, but at this point, almost nothing would surprise me.  He is our Renaissance man.

Sunday, April 14, 2013

Entrepreneurship


This is a nation of small entrepreneurs.  Despite extensive government ownership (due to the father of the country introducing socialism after independence in the 1960s), 18th century economist Adam Smith would recognize the activities of the common people here as capitalistic.  In cities, towns, and villages, there are innumerable tiny shops selling an assortment of goods, from grocery staples to stationary to clothing, new and used.  Carpenters work out of small buildings or under a makeshift roof and take orders to build beds, tables, chairs, or whatever is needed.  People set up tables along the roadside to sell produce from their gardens.  Women set up charcoal stoves on street corners to fry fish or maandazi (muffins), or roast corn cobs, and sell them to passersby.  At the official marketplaces, people sell produce, shoes, jewelry, used clothing, household goods, and videos, much like a flea market in the States. 

Even middle-class people get into the act.  Some of the teachers at our school have sidelines selling phones, beauty products, vitamins, dresses, shoes, and purses.  (I know, this sounds like Avon, Pampered Chef, and Tupperware.)  There is a very nice house nearby on a path used by primary school students on their way to and from school.  The lady of the house (or possible the maid) sets up a display of snacks and drinks on the front porch every afternoon, to sell to the children after school.  

One of the surprising thing to me is the fact that vendors are allowed to hawk their wares to teachers in the staff lounge.  Yesterday, during our mid-morning break, a woman made a pitch for the health benefits of green tea, and invited the teachers to a seminar this weekend.  Other times, people have promoted magazine subscriptions, kitchenware, and even underwear!  Some of the Tanzanian teachers react with interest to these pitches, and all are tolerant of them.  As I was told, these people have to make a living, and they have a very small profit margin on their goods.

But this is all small potatoes stuff.  Business on a larger scale runs into barriers of bureaucracy and corruption.  A small business owner in Arusha tells us of the difficulties of getting permits.  He has a Facebook page but not a website, so as not to attract the attention of the authorities.  A permit for a website is costly, and leads officials to think that a person has money for taxes and bribes.

Another barrier is lack of capital.  The small entrepreneur can borrow funds from family and friends, but it is very difficult to get business loans from banks for a larger business.  International sources of funds often hesitate to supply them because of the corruption and bureaucratic inefficiency here.   Until the country can clean up those issues, the larger economy will not thrive.